Saturday, September 26, 2015

Return to Vava'u, Tonga Aug, Sept. 2015

      Welcome to the Sea Trails of Irie II.  This sea story continues from the old Sea Trails found in Sailblogs.   http://www.sailblogs.com/member/sv_irieii/381368


     After checking in with immigration/customs, what?  Yep, here you have to check in between island groups.  Just one of the many pieces of paper governments uses to keep track of us sailors.  In other places, I had to check in if there was a Port Capitan and in Cuba I had to check-in everywhere.  In modern time, all my friends have to do is just open the blog and click on a few buttons and then they can see where I'm located (almost).  Technology at it's best.  Why all the paper work?  Anyway after doing the check in dance and doing a little provisioning along comes Phil now waiting for him to do the same.  Then a night out, sure don't feel like cooking or cleaning.

     Then on the horizon the Samoan's Vaka come sailing in.  Last time I seen them they were tied up to the dock in Auckland.  This must be the 4th time I've  been in the same harbor with them.  They have been sailing  along side the sailing canoes Hokulea from Hawaii since my days in French Polynesia then all the way to New Zealand.  Now they are sailing back home to Samoa.  Hoping I see them there in a few months.

 I even signed up for a ride on this traditional way of crossing oceans with the 1st female Yacht-master, Captain Fealofani  from Samoa on tomorrow's sail.  But an impromptu wedding came up, so I just watch her sail off  without me.  Maybe next time.    
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      I finally leave the Mooring field and city life early one Monday morning just to go and join Silhouette and Sequoia for a trip to Sparrow’s cave, Mariner’s Cave and getting back into the cruising life style.  They left Neiafu last week and have been enjoying Vava'u's remote anchorages every since.  I passed them anchored on the NW coast of Kapa Island on a little spec of sand and coral  only 10 meters deep so they could be close to the caves.  I didn’t like the looks of it so I went a couple miles further to Pt. Maurelle, a big spec of sand with coral and only 30 meters deep with a little beach.  It’s mention in the cruising guide as a nice anchorage.  



        Plus there were several other boats there that I can socialize with and tonight when the wind switch directions, hope everybody stay in one place.  And of course another Pot Luck dinner and beach fire and drinks.  And by morning the boat is pointing in the opposite direction of where it was when I went to sleep.  After everyone readjusted anchors - mind was wrapped around several coral heads - I take that long wet dinghy ride to meet up with the others for a snorkel into Sparrow's Cave.  Even by dinghy the wind always come from where I want to go.






     
If it wasn't for all the graffiti on the walls - Why do people must destroy the beauty of places like this?



 

 
 

Tons of sardines or bait.
 


     We didn't make it to Mariner's Cave.  Too far to haul scuba gear.  We will have to book a trip there with the local dive shop one day.

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Since we cancel the Cave dive we sail back to Nieafu Harbor and I pick up my favorite Mooring ball close to the Mango Cafe so I can get free Wi-Fi, after I buy something to get the password.  Happy hour here I come.  And a night out on the town.  The video of the weekly Wed. night  activities at The Bounty Bar didn't come out very well.  So when you see me ask, and I'll tell you all about it.

We had a Safari Cart book for the next day's fun.  But it looked more like a go-cart to me.  We had heard about the Bontanical Gardens on the far North East side but why take a bus when you can have a little fun on the way.

  


 
Washing and drying the bark to make tapas.  And a dried water well, haven't rain lately.



 And this tree here is ahhh?




 
I sure hope my Avacado Tree back home is better.


 He sure knows his stuff.  You ever get close to Tonga his place is a must see.  And he does tell a good story or two.





 

  
The North Shore

Well what trip would not be complete if it wasn't for the kids?  On the way back we where greeted by the friendly kids and the bad dogs.  We survived both. 



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Next day's fun - swimming with the whales.  Up early to catch the boat.  Just a little tied from all the fun we had yesterday, but nothing like a good swim in some cold water to wake you up.  After motoring around all morning someone finally spotted whales off the port bow.  The chase was on or was it the race was on.  First tour boat there gets the whale.  It helped that we had a head start.  But before we can jump in, we do a little whale watching because they need to calm down a little.  Don't want to get whale slapped.  

 

Get Ready
  Get Set

Go
   
Some where they be whales
 
Vis sucks and the whales never stop swimming away.







So back to the boat we go.






Irie II at famous mooring ball


The poor quality of the video wasn't worth my time to edit so here's last years videos to get you in the mood.  




















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Since the only things open on Sunday are the roads, the restaurants and the churches.  We take the first two.  After breakfast and directions me and Phil take a long uphill hike to highest peak in this part of Tonga.  

   
  

 

 
















Bigass boat,  Even got it's own runway.  Anybody can have a heliport on deck.


 

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You can really appreciate a sport once you given it a try.  Cricket use to be as foreign to me as baseball is to most of the world.  As punishment  my first game of Cricket had to be played in the mud with a bunch of other American cruisers that didn't know what they were doing.  But we do know how to have fun.


  Mangoes And  Mud Fields.  Our team mascot was the Mud Crab.


  



Everyone is wet and spirits are dry.  Someone forgot to bring the beer and BBQ.  They didn't think anyone would show up in this weather for Cricket lessons.  


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One of the Texas Boys tradition is on our birthdays the other have to buy an expensive dinner.  Now it's my time for that dinner and there is no where in this part of Tonga that sell an expensive dinner.  Well there is this one place, but it ain't close.  So I demanded two Tongan expensive dinners and he still came out ahead.  On my day we went to the Tropicana for their Friday night BBQ.  For less then $10us ea. we pigged out.  Drinks were extra.  And we had this  soon to be world famous guitar player sign happy b-day.




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The next day we all set sail for the always on Saturday Tongan feast on the island of Vaka' eitu.  Roast pork on the open fire, with all the other Tongan dishes that I can't remember the name of.  We pigged out again.  It sure was good.  Again for <$15us ea.  Next year I hope to be somewhere expensive.  Because I'm sure he's going to get me in NZ.

 






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On Sunday we moved over to Matamaka Village, since the wind direction had change and this new anchorage was better for the upcoming flood.  Hope nobody mind, because you're not suppose to work on Sunday.  As predicted that night in rain enough to fill up my dinghy.  The next day another muddy walk through town.

 

 

 

 

 

 


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Next Mooring field - anchorage #11, north of Tapana Island.  Well this is the place for that expensive dinner.  But Phil not buying - he said "its too late".   It was a race to get here because the lady at the Ark Gallery said over the VHF, I only have one mooring ball left."  I win due to an early start.  When Phil arrives she put him on the other "only one left" mooring ball.  Maybe she meant the one on the left?

Well I had to buy my own expensive dinner at the La Paella Restaurant   One of the best in my memory.  Way back in 1992  Water Babies Sailing Club facebook page paid a visit.  The restaurant had just open a few years earlier and was just getting things right.  And it's still right.  But the chickens now live outside with the ducks and the goats and dogs live inside and the pigs are running wild.




  






Well I did get to eat birthday cake after all, only it wasn't my birthday.





The band is still playing after all these years.  Even got real drums.  And of course they sound just as good if not better then they did 25 years ago.



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Next day, a sail over to another well remembered anchorage from 25 years ago.  Kenutu Island.  We found the spot that we had our beach BBQ and camp fire.  The coals may have been washed out to sea, but not the memories.  Wouldn't mind seeing those videos or pics from way back then.  We hiked over to the other side for a view of the blow holes.  Not much of a swell today so not much of a blow.  There was this one structure overlooking the ocean.  Best we could tell - it was left over from the filming of Survivor.  I know they never had an episode in Tonga.  Heard the hotel owner up the rent and TV station moved somewhere else.





  

  


Well all good things sometimes come to an end.  And if I want to see something else besides Tonga this year I better get a move on.  Reprovision and wait on weather, reprovision and wait some more.  Finally the first week of Oct a weather window opens.  Sequoia, Silhouette, and Irie II check-out of Tonga heading North for Samoa.